1950s

A desire for glamour, opulence and luxury follows the austerity of the war years. Poise and grooming define the haute couture fashions from Paris and London - Christian Dior, Christobal Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Lanvin, Pierre Balmain, Hardy Amies, Belleville Sassoon - with restrictive, corseted bodies, not seen since the 19th century. The accentuated hourglass figure – wasp waists with full petticoat or pencil skirt – the dress supporting the body. Workmanship and excellence rarely seen since and reason why these designs are to become so desirable and collectable.  

Design companies such as Susan Small, Horrockses and Polly Peck, make quality clothes accessible to a broader market. Italian label Max Mara, also recognises the market for more volume production of designer quality clothing, emphasising the brand over its stream of high-profile designers. Jaeger, by now already established for over 50 years making clothing exclusively from wool, begins to embrace other fabrics and appoints Jean Muir for direction in design. 

Coco Chanel comes out of retirement aged 71 to champion comfort, dismayed by the constrained silhouettes of the day, and the Chanel suit becomes the signature style and timeless classic is remains today. Hubert de Givenchy gives Audrey Hepburn her gamine look and more relaxed, sheath silhouettes evolve – the body supporting the dress. A-line, sack-dress, sheath and ‘baby-doll’. As the 50’s fade, the black polo-neck and slacks of the ‘beat’ look is adopted. The decade of accessories, shifting hemlines, disappearing waistlines and fabric technology…and the advent of teen fashion, liberation and youth rebellion!