“The first clothes we shall wear in the 90’s are designed to caress the senses and soothe the spirit. The hard style of the work ethic has modulated into a new sense of the importance of balance and well-being…” Vogue’s ‘Eye View’, Winter 1989
Out with the power suit and short skirts - long hemlines and trousers form the elegant, elongated and softer lines of the 90’s. The anti-fashion, ‘grunge’ movement is embraced – a shabby, mis-matched style that requires little effort and investment. For a youth sick of black, the Acid House scene literally glows with neons, London Boy boiler suits and smiley faces, influencing Marc Jacobs, Kansai Yamamoto and Anna Sui to produce designer versions. Body-con lines continue with Alaia and Herve Leger, whose bandage dresses serve as a second skin. Sportswear is a mainstay of high street fashion.
Acclaimed British designer, Betty Jackson, opens her flagship store. Jaeger, over a century old, appoints Bella Freud to inject modernity. Max Mara, now established for over half a century and having spawned numerous sub-labels, continues to assert its reputation for up-market, designer quality clothes.
Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani remain consistent with their luxury designer label classics. Italian design is influential at the high-end with, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino and Prada (and her Miu Miu diffusion line) now global, whilst Tom Ford reignites a languishing Gucci. Michael Kors becomes head designer at Celine and Alexander McQueen - regarded for his imaginative creations - takes over at Givenchy from John Galliano, who moves to Dior, reaffirming his couture credentials. It’s hard to keep up as designers move between design houses in a strategy which gains the brands more momentum than the individuals…whilst the logos gradually became more subtle.
A stream of visionary, conceptual designers regard fashion as an applied art, with an almost sculptural use of materials: Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Viktor & Rolf, Yamamoto, Issy Miyake and Junya Watanabe, amongst others. Valentino, Chanel, Loewe, Mugler, John Paul Gaultier et al, remain high profile and Stella McCartney is lauded for her graduate show.
